Cosmetology State Board Practice Test: 146 Questions, Exams of Advanced Education

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COSMETOLOGY STATE BOARD PRACTICE TEST 146 QUESTIONS

Corrugations - Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries. Furrows - Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness. Leuconchia - White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail Onychorrhexis - Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals. Hang Nails - Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle Onychomycosis Unguium - Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious Onychocryptosis - Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes. Verruca - Warts caused by infectious virus Onycholysis - lifting of the nail without shedding 5 Basic Nail Shapes - squoval, round, oval, pointed, square Toner - used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring Conditioning filler - protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes Color filler - used to replace the missing primary colors

Oxidative - Demi- permenant and permenant color Non-oxidative color - temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent. Double process blonde - decolorizing and toning What affects lightener working time? - Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat Lift - lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair Deposit - means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift developer - oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten Semi-permanent color - non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo. Demi-permanent color - oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone Permanent color - lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out Primary colors - Red, Blue, Yellow Brown - unequal combo of primary color Black - Equal parts of primary colors

Warm tones - red, orange, yellow Cool tones - blue, green, violet Neutral tones - perfect combo of both cool and warm tones Eumelanin - Brown to black pigments Pheomelanin - Red to yellow pigments Coarse texture - largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected medium texture - has a balance of melanin, typically no problems Fine texture - smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage Alkaline Wave - AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0-9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT Acid Wave - AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing Endothermic - required added heat source Exothermic - self heating Croguiqnole - Wrapping technique from ends to scalp, causes tighter curls on ends. also referred to as "overlapping method"

Spiral - hair is not perpendicular to rod - spiraled from top-bottom of rod On base placement - hair is held 45* forward 1/2 off base placement - hair is held 90* straight up Off base placement - hair is held 45* down End paper techniques - double flat, bookend, cushion wrap Lanthionization - hydroxide relaxer removes 1 of the sulfer atoms converting from a disulfide bond converting it into a lanthionine bond, which is only 1 sulfur atom. can never be reformed Sodium relaxers are not compatible with : - Thio relaxers Elasticity - ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking. wet - 50%, dry - 20% Melanin - color pigment. eumelanin, and pheomelanin Hair layers - medulla, cuticle, and cortex Medulla - center core of hair, does nothing Cuticle - 7-14 scale like layers, outer layer of hair Cortex - has hair pigment (melanin), 90% of hair weight, elasticity, strength, all chemical changes Skin Layers - Epidermis, Dermis, Subcutaneous tissue

Epidermis - Outer layer of skin, protective/water proof, contains keratin and fats, stratum germinativum Stratum Germinativum - basal cell layer of epidermis that produces melanin that protects from uv rays Dermis - "True skin" sensitive layer of connective tissue, 25x thicker than the epidermis, 70% of layer is made of collagen protein, elastin, and blood vessels Sebaceous glands - oil/sebum glands Sudoriferous glands - sweat glands subcutaneous tissue - fatty layer, below the dermis acid mantle - 4.5-5. Muscle massage - massage from insertion to origin insertion - attached end to another muscle or movable bone origin - fixed attachment to a bone or tissue Efflerage - light continuous stroking/no pressure, soothing/relaxing Functions of the skin - protection, sensations, heat regulation, excretion, secreation Skin - Largest organ of the body, first defense against disease, germs, and environment. Spread wax on in: - same direction as hair growth

Pull wax strip off in: - opposite direction of hair growth Methods of temporary hair removal - Shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories (nair) Ph Scale ranges from - 0- Acid ph balance - 0- Neutral ph balance - 7 Alkaline ph balance - 7- Infection Control - controlling germs - sanitation 3 Methods of infection control - sanitation, disinfecting, sterilization Sanitation - removing visible dirt disinfecting - kills most bacteria but not all Sterilization - kills all microbial life Marvacide - hospital grade, EPA registered, effective against HIV, tuberculosis and hepatitis Hypertrichosis - unsusal amount of hair growth Terminal hair - very dark visible hair Vellus hair - baby fine hair

hyper - more than normal trich - hair ology - the study of something osis - condition invisible braid - over technique visible braid - under technique corrective base to use for yellow - violet corrective base to use for orange - blue corrective base to use for red - green in a test curl you look for what shaped pattern? - "S" pattern Bloodborne pathogens - disease causing bacteria or viruses carried through the body in blood or body fluids OSHA - occupational safety and health administrations EPA - environmental protection agency Where should you test foundation? - jawline

What are complimentary colors? - colors on opposite sides of the color wheel: red & green, blue & orange, and yellow & violet Another name for strip lashes - band lashes Corrective make up is used to do what to the face - hide imperfections What are MSDS Sheets? - Material Safety Data Sheet What do MSDS Sheets list? - Chemical safety info for a product What are the hazards categorized as on MSDS sheets? - Physical and health Builds weight in a hair cut - Horizontal line Reduces weight in a hair cut - Vertical line Weight distributed on top or bottom, used for blending - Diagonal line 4 Basic Hair cuts - 180, 90, 45, 0 Over direction - pulling hair away from its natural fall Head shape changes how often? - every half inch Fingerwaves - the process of shaping and directing hair into a pattern of "s" shaped waves throughout the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion or gel

Pin curls - serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls and rolls that are used in a wide range of hair styles Roller set - used to create many of the same effects as stand up pin curls Parts of a pin curl - base, stem, circle Ammonium Sulfate relaxer - classified as "low ph" or "no lye", will not relax extremely curly hair Quanidine hydroxide - known as "no lye" always has to be mixed with an activator, less scalp irritation, more drying to hair, swells hair more Characteristics of hair - density, texture, elasticity, porosity, growth direction, length Texture - diameter of the hair, fine - medium - coarse Density - hairs per square inch - thick or thin Porosity - How well hair absorbs moisture - non porous, normal anor over porous Elasticity - Hairs ability to stretch Growth Direction - whirls, callics 3 types of bonds - hydrogen bond, salt bond, disulfide bond Hydrogen bond - broken by water or heat, weak bond, 1/3 of hair strength Salt bond - affected by ph. 1/3 of hair strength

Disulfide bond - strong chemical bonds, can be broken and reformed with perm solution. bleaching and coloring hair can weaken bond as well. 1/3 of hair strength Perm papers - absorbant papers that control ends of hair Acid on ph does what to cuticle - closes cuticle Alkaline on ph does what to cuticle? - Swells the cuticle , blows it open Anatomy - the study of the structure of the organs and systems of the human body Physiology - the study of the functions and activities performed by body structures Cells - the basic units of living matter The cells of living things are composed of a substance called what? - protoplasm Histology - AKA microscope anatomy, the study of tiny structures only visible through microscope Chemistry - the science that deals with structures and properties of matter and how it changes under different conditions Organic Chemistry - Stustances that contain carbon and were alive Inorganic Chemistry - study of substances that do not contain carbon Matter - anything that takes of space and has mass

3 types of matter - solid, liquid, gas Solid - definite shape and volume Liquid - Definite volume no definite shape Gas - No definite volume or shape Element - simpilest form of matter and cannot be broken down COHNS - elements found in the hair Atoms - Particles from which all matter is composed Molecule - Chemical compound of 2 or more atoms Compound - chemical combo of 2 or more atoms of different elements Physical properties - size, color, weight, hardness