Laboratory Instructions
You can do several of the experiments at once if you plan ahead and are careful. If you
adjust the wave period, the height will also change significantly, so you may also need to
adjust the stroke.
Experiment 1. Basic wave parameters
The text describes the experiment well. Using the lab equipment, compare measured
wave profiles and wavelengths, with theoretical values. It is probably best if you do not
try to measure group velocities. Make sure that you have a good measurement of the
wave period, which can be obtained by timing 10 or 20 wave periods at the wavemaker.
Try to get a range of wave conditions from deep to shallow water on the flat section of
the tank.
Write up one report for the entire group, using the format in the text.
Experiment 2. Wave profiles and particle trajectories in progressive waves.
Find a way to make neutrally buoyant particles that can trace the wave orbital motions.
This is the hardest part of the experiment. You could drill holes in ping pong balls and
make them neutrally buoyant. You may need to add a small bit of light or heavy material
to do this. Or you might use small bits of paper, if these are visible.
Follow the instructions in the text, but don't try to create standing waves.
Again, one report per group.
Experiment 4. Breaking waves
Look at the text for details. If you can use the wave gauges to measure breaking wave
height, that is best. If you can’t move them that far, then estimate wave heights by
looking at the wave envelope on the side wall. You can probably even mark the high and
low points of the wave on the side, using erasable(!!) markers. Try to decide what type of
breaking wave is obtained. Compare this to our indices for breaking type. (You need to
measure beach slope and wave period as well.) Try to get a range spanning spilling to
surging breakers.
You don't need to do the standing wave breaking for experiment 4.
Write up, with one report per group.
Experiment 8. Plane Wavemaker
Follow the text - this can be done at the same time as the other experiments.
