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Indice - Main Elements of Fashion Design and Fashion Structure - Garment Classification and Sartorial Details - Fabric, Treatments and Care - Fashion trends, Accessories and Geographical Study
Tipologia: Schemi e mappe concettuali
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Colours : Results from reflection of light waves → perception comes from brain or eyes. Colour Wheel : Circle made up of 12 segments divided into primary, secondary, and tertiary colours. They are also classified into complementary and analogous colours. Shapes & Volumes : Area with definite outline and visible structure. Proportion is defined by the way the body is divided through lines. Design : Post-researching materials. Seasons influence colours. It is expressed through sketch (communication of thoughts by drawing). Materials : Illustrate a wide range of images and interpret them. Tools used: paint brush, magic markers, fine-line pens, acrylic paint, watercolour print. Research & Moodboard : Presentation of research book on a board. It must have: colour palette, reference to theme, fabric, keywords, styling imagery. Essential for inspiration: source, find a theme (inspiring and lucrable).
The structure is divided mainly into two industrial macro-areas:
Fashion Industry (Mass Fashion) : Standardized large-scale production for the mass market. Fashion Industry (High Fashion) : Subdivided into: Haute Couture : Individual customers, expensive, innovate and original, twice a year (Paris). Prêt-à-Porter : High quality, produce large numbers, twice a year (Fashion Week).
Collection
Specific season, different ranges: casual, evening, tailoring, underwear, sportswear.
Brands position themselves in different market segments:
Luxury super brands Mid-level brands Independent labels Streetwear High street Value market
Fashion Capitals
French (Paris) : Sophisticated and smart. Reference brand: Chanel.
British (London) : Smart, innovate, unconventional. Reference brand: Vivienne Westwood. American (New York) : Athletic, clean-out. Reference brand: Calvin Klein. Italy (Milan) : Valentino, elegant. Japan (Tokyo) : Loose and unstructured. Reference brand: Kenzo.
Fast Fashion
End 1990s, for increase profits, introduce new products several times during a season (e.g., H&M ).
Pros : Simplicity, accessibility. Cons : "Throw-away" attitude, poor working conditions.
In history, not women until 1920s, introduced by Coco Chanel, after WWII → women Bermuda or Capri pants. Revolution 1960s, 1970s rules relaxed.
Bell bottoms : Bell shape from knee to ankle, popular 1960s. Cigarette : Straight, towards the ankle cut to taper. Stirrup : Fuseaux, have strap elasticated under the foot → modern version: leggings. Jodhpurs : Riding trousers, flare from hips to knee, tight from knee to ankle. Culottes : Wide, appearance of skirt. Bermuda : Popular holiday resort, almost to knee. Capri pants : Loose, tapered to mid-calf. Shorts : For man, women since 1920s → Hot pants: brief shorts. Dungarees : Long trousers with sleeveless bib and shoulder straps.
Trousers Cuts : Straight leg, Skinny fit, High/low waisted, Oversized, Cropped, Twisted leg, Peg top.
Dresses (One piece) : Tunic : Short dress, sleeveless, tied at waist or left loose. Caftan : Loosely cut, ankle length, open front, long wide sleeves, common middle East. Empire line : Empress Josephine (Napoleon) → success, high waistline just below breasts. Ball gown : Luxurious fabric. Cocktail dress : American, for cocktail hour or dinner. Little Black Dress : Essential, must-have, type of cocktail dress (most common). Suit (Two articles: jacket and trousers, same fabric, same cut) : Executive suit : Classic, women during 1970s. Power suit : Variant 1980s, shoulder pads padded. Trouser suit : Two piece tailored. Tuxedo : Formal men's dinner jacket. Tracksuit : For athletes, cotton or synthetic fibres.
Buttons : Small discs, secure 2 pieces of fabric (size, number depends on garment). Made of: natural materials, synthetic materials, covered fabric/leather. Used as fasteners or decoration. Types of buttons : Flat (2/4 holes, by machine), Shank (small ring with hole on back, extra space between button and garment), Covered (coordinating fabric with garment), Worked (embroidering).
Buttonholes : Vertical/horizontal slits, x fastening, number match buttons. Made by: hand stitching, machine stitching.
Collars : Sometimes sew. Parts : Bands (strips fasten around neck), Corners (points hold collar in place), Spread (distance between points), Stand (band x support collar). Types : Standing (fit around neck, no tie or shoulder), Turnover (stand around neck, fold over), Flat (lie on shoulders), Mandarin (narrow unfolded stand-up), Detachable (separate from shirt, made different fabric). Lapels : Turned back to show reverse side (formal clothing, suits, jacket). Types : Notched (common business suits), Peaked (formal, double breasted jacket), Shawl (least formal, dinner jacket). Cuffs : Divided. Types : Button cuffs (buttonholes on inside, button on other), Link cuffs (buttonholes both sides, closed cuffs links → 2 types: single = original, double = formal clothes), Convertible (closed with buttons or cufflinks).
Shoes : Parts: Upper Tongue, Heel, Sole, Foot Bed. Styles: Heels (ex Kitten Heels), Flats (Oxford), Sandals (Flip-flops), Boots (Cowboy), Athletic (Sports shoes). Accessories : Hats (Baseball), Ties (Bowtie), Glasses (Italy, USA), Gloves (1800s, 1950s/70), Hosiery (thights, socks), Belts (from military), Scarves (Grace Kelly for underchin), Bags (small touches on belt 14th century, 1930s most modern bags, 1980s introduced "it bag").
After WWII, clothes focusing young people.
1960s : Elegant suits (Jackie Kennedy), Mary Quant miniskirt, silver and plastic for "space look", hippies and peace movements. Nascita dei movimenti pacifisti. 1970s : High platform, shiny clothes, disco, punk with short clothes and safety pins for signs rebel, singers rock. 1980s : Big shoulders, big hair, fitness clothes, suits with t-shirts. 1990s : Clothes simple/comfortable, different groups (grunge / hip-hop). 2000s : Modern version of vintage, skinny jeans and large coats.
Goal: Makin clothes in a way that helps workers and doesn't ruin the planet.
Use natural materials. Pay workers with the right salary. Recycling old clothes.
Geography & Territory : Location : North America between Canada and Mexico. Size : Third largest country in the world. Nature : Rocky Mountains and Appalachians; Mississippi and Colorado rivers; Great Lakes. Politics & Government : Structure : Federal republic of 50 states. Capital: Washington D.C.
Government : Based on the Constitution (1787) and split into three branches: Legislative (Congress), Executive (President), Judicial (Supreme Court). Population & Economy : Population : Over 330 million people. Society : Multiethnic (White, Hispanic, African American, Native Asian) and with distinct communities (Amish). Economy : Global powerhouse leading in technology, industry and agriculture. Education System : Levels : Elementary, Middle, High School (diploma), College / University. Universities : Prestigious (Harvard, Yale), but with very high tuition costs.