Soup Making Techniques: Broths, Consommés, Cream, Purée, and Cold Soups, Study notes of Italian Philology

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Soups

T

he variety of ingredients, seasonings and garnishes you can use for soups is virtually endless, provided you understand the basic procedures for making different kinds of soup. Great soups can be made from the finest and most expensive ingredients or from leftovers from the previous evening’s dinner service and trimmings from the day’s production. Soups are universally recognized as comfort foods in which seasonal ingredients can shine. Although fresh ingredients are preferable, the wise use of leftovers means a daily soup special can be an economical, practical menu item.

This chapter applies to soups the skills and knowledge learned in Chapter 11, Stocks and Sauces. In Chapter 11, we discussed making stocks, thickening liquids, using a liaison and skimming impurities, techniques that apply to soup making as well. Here we discuss tech- niques such as clarifying consommés and thickening soups with vegetable purées. This chapter also covers guidelines for preparing, garnishing and serving a variety of soups.

CHARACTERISTICS OF SOUP

Most soups can be classified by cooking technique and appearance as either clear or

thick. Clear soups include broths (Fr. bouillon) made from meat, poultry, game, fish or

vegetables as well as consommés , which are broths clarified to remove impurities.

Thick soups include cream soups and purée soups. The most common cream soups

are those made from vegetables cooked in a liquid that is thickened with a starch and

puréed; cream is then incorporated to add richness and flavor. Purée soups are generally

made from starchy vegetables or legumes. After the main ingredient is simmered in a

liquid, the mixture—or a portion of it—is puréed.

Some soups discussed in this chapter (notably bisques and chowders as well as cold

soups such as gazpacho and fruit soup) are neither clear nor thick soups. Rather they are

the result of special preparation methods or a combination of the methods mentioned

before.

A soup’s quality is determined by its flavor, appearance and texture. A good soup

should be full-flavored, with no off or sour tastes. Flavors from each of the soup’s ingre-

dients should blend and complement, with no one flavor overpowering another. Con-

sommés should be crystal clear. The vegetables in vegetable soups should be brightly

colored, not gray. Ingredients added to enhance the soup’s appearance and flavor should

be attractive and uniform in size and shape. The soup’s texture should be very precise.

If it is supposed to be smooth, then it should be very smooth and lump-free. If the soft

and crisp textures of certain ingredients are supposed to contrast, the soup should not be

overcooked, as this causes all the ingredients to become mushy and soft.

Garnishing is an important consideration when preparing soups. When applied to

soups, the word garnish has two meanings. The first is the one more typically associated

with the word. It refers to foods added to the soup as decoration—for example, a broc-

coli floret floated on a bowl of cream of broccoli soup. The second refers to foods that

may serve not only as decorations but also as critical components of the final product—

for example, noodles in a bowl of chicken noodle soup. In this context, the noodles are

not ingredients because they are not used to make the chicken soup. Rather they are

added to chicken soup to create a different dish. These additional items are still referred

to as garnishes, however.

After studying this chapter,

you will be able to:

▶ ▶ describe the different classifications of soup

▶ ▶ prepare a variety of clear broths and consommés

▶ ▶ prepare thick cream and purée soups

▶ ▶ prepare cold soups

▶ ▶ garnish and serve soups appropriately

258 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

➊ (^) Browning the meat. ➋ (^) Adding mirepoix to the broth. ➌ (^) Straining the broth.

Beef Broth

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ Cut beef shank into pieces.  ▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.  ▶ Wash and peel turnips and leeks and chop into medium dice.  ▶ Wash, peel, seed and dice tomatoes.  ▶ Prepare herb sachet.

YIELD 2 gal. (7.6 lt), 42 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Broth

Beef shank, neck or shoulder cut in 2-in.- (5-cm-) thick pieces

12 lb. 5.7 kg

Vegetable oil 8 fl. oz. 240 ml Beef stock or water, cold 2 gal. 7.6 lt Mirepoix 2 lb. 960 g Turnips, medium dice 8 oz. 240 g Leeks, medium dice 8 oz. 240 g Tomatoes, seeded and diced 8 oz. 240 g Sachet: Bay leaf 1 1 Dried thyme ½ 1 tsp. 5 ml Peppercorns, crushed ½ 1 tsp. 5 ml Parsley stems 8 8 Garlic cloves, crushed 2 2 Salt TT TT

1 Brown the meat in 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliters) oil, then place it in a stockpot. Add the stock or water and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently for 2 hours, skimming the surface as necessary. 2 Caramelize the mirepoix in the remaining oil and add it to the liquid after the meat has simmered for 2 hours. Add the turnips, leeks, tomatoes and sachet. 3 Simmer until full flavor has developed, approximately 1 hour. Skim the surface as necessary. 4 Carefully strain the broth through cheesecloth and season to taste. Cool and refrigerate.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 30, Total fat 1 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 55 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 4 g

Good Choice

S O U P S 259

Broth-Based Soups

Broths are often used as bases for familiar soups such as vegetable, chicken noodle and

beef barley. Transforming a broth into a broth-based vegetable soup, for example, is

quite simple. Although a broth may be served with a vegetable (or meat) garnish, a

broth-based vegetable soup is a soup in which the vegetables (and meats) are cooked

directly in the broth, adding flavor, body and texture to the finished product. Any num-

ber of vegetables can be used to make a vegetable soup; it could be a single vegetable

as in onion soup or a dozen different vegetables in a hearty minestrone.

When making broth-based vegetable soups, each ingredient must be added at the

proper time so that all ingredients are cooked when the soup is finished. The ingredients

must cook long enough to add their flavors and soften sufficiently but not so long that

they lose their identity and become too soft or mushy. Soups that simmer too long can

reduce in volume, concentrating seasonings, especially salt. Add additional plain broth to

adjust the seasonings. A raw diced potato or carrot can also be added to a salty broth

and simmered to absorb some of the excess saltiness.

Broth-based vegetable soups made by simmering ingredients directly in the broth are

generally not as clear as plain broths. But appearance is still important. When cutting

ingredients for the soup, pay particular attention so that the pieces are uniform and visu-

ally appealing. Small dice, julienne, bâtonnet or paysanne cuts are recommended. Broth

and broth-based soups are naturally low in calories and fat, so they often make ideal

healthy menu options.

Procedure for Preparing Broth-Based Vegetable Soups

(^1) Sweat long-cooking vegetables in butter or fat. (^2) Add the appropriate stock or broth and bring to a simmer. (^3) Add seasonings, such as bay leaves, dried thyme, crushed peppercorns, parsley stems and garlic, in a bouquet garni or sachet, allowing enough time for the seasonings to fully flavor the soup. (^4) Add additional ingredients according to their cooking times. (^5) Simmer the soup to blend all the flavors. (^6) If the soup is not going to be served immediately, cool and refrigerate it. (^7) Just before service, add any garnishes that were prepared separately or that do not require cooking.

S O U P S 261

Well-prepared consommés should be rich in the flavor of the main ingredient. Beef

and game consommés should be dark in color; consommés made from poultry should

have a golden to light amber color. All consommés should have substantial body as a

result of their high gelatin content and should be perfectly clear with no trace of fat.

Because a consommé is a refined broth, it is absolutely essential that the broth or stock

used be of the highest quality. Although the clarification process adds some flavor to the

consommé, the finished consommé will be only as good as the stock or broth from

which it was made.

The Clarification Process

To make a consommé, you clarify a stock or broth. The stock or broth to be clarified

must be cold and grease-free. During clarification, the cold degreased stock or broth is

combined with a mixture known as a clearmeat or clarification. A clearmeat is a mixture

of egg whites; ground meat, poultry or fish; mirepoix, herbs and spices; and an acidic

product, usually tomatoes, lemon juice or wine. (An onion brûlé, also known as an

oignon brûlé, is also often added to help flavor and color the consommé. See Chapter 9,

Mise en Place.)

In the next step of clarification, the stock or broth and clearmeat are slowly brought

to a simmer. As the albumen in the egg whites and meat begins to coagulate at 120°F

(48°C), it traps impurities suspended in the liquid. As coagulation continues, the albumen-

containing items combine with the other clearmeat ingredients and rise to the liquid’s

surface, forming a raft. As the mixture simmers, the raft ingredients release their flavors,

further enriching the consommé.

After simmering, the consommé is carefully strained through several layers of damp

cheesecloth to remove any trace of impurities. It is then completely degreased, either by

cooling and refrigerating, then removing the solidified fat, or by carefully ladling the fat

from the surface. The result is a rich, flavorful, crystal-clear consommé.

raft a crust formed during the process of clarifying consommé; it is composed of the clearmeat and impurities from the stock, which rise to the top of the simmering stock and release additional flavors

Classic Consommés

Many classic consommés are known by their garnishes. A few are listed here with their characteristic garnishes: Consommé brunoise: Blanched or sautéed brunoise of turnip, leek, celery and onion Consommé julienne: Blanched or sautéed julienne of carrot, turnip, leek, celery, cabbage and onion Consommé paysanne: Blanched or sautéed paysanne of leek, turnip, carrot, celery and potato Consommé bouquetière: Assorted blanched vegetables Consommé madrilène: Tomatoes or tomato juice; served hot or cold Consommé royale: Cooked custard cut into tiny shapes Angel hair consommé: Cooked angel hair (vermicelli) pasta Consommé with profiteroles: Tiny profiteroles (pâte à choux rounds) stuffed with foie gras

Procedure for Preparing Consommés

(^1) Prepare the clearmeat. Whip the egg whites until frothy. In a suitable stockpot (if available, one with a spigot makes it much easier to strain the consommé when it is finished), combine the ground meat, lightly whipped egg whites and other clearmeat ingredients. (^2) Add the cold stock or broth and stir to combine with the clearmeat ingredients, onion brûlé and sachet d’épices. (^3) Over medium heat, slowly bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Stop stirring once the raft begins to form. (^4) As the raft forms, make a hole in its center so that the liquid can bubble through. This will allow the raft to cook completely and will extract as much flavor as possible from the raft ingredients. (^5) Simmer the consommé until full flavor develops, approximately 1 to 1½ hours. (^6) Carefully strain the consommé through several layers of damp cheesecloth and degrease completely. (^7) If the consommé will not be used immediately, it should be cooled and refrigerated, following the procedures for cooling stocks discussed in Chapter 11, Stocks and Sauces. When the consommé is completely cold, remove any remaining fat that solidifies on its surface. (^8) If, after reheating the consommé, small dots of fat appear on the surface, remove them by blotting with a small piece of paper towel.

262 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

Beef Consommé

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix.  ▶ Seed and dice tomato.  ▶ Prepare onions brûlés and herb sachet.

1 Whip the egg whites until slightly frothy. 2 Combine the egg whites, beef, mirepoix and tomatoes in an appropriate stockpot. 3 Add the broth or stock; mix well and add the onions brûlés and sachet. 4 Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Stop stirring when the raft begins to form. 5 Break a hole in the center of the raft to allow the consommé to bubble through. 6 Simmer until full flavor develops, approximately 1½ hours. 7 Strain through several layers of moist cheesecloth, degrease and adjust the seasonings. Cool and refrigerate or hold for service. Note Guidelines for garnishing consommés as well as some classic garnishes are listed on page 274.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 20, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 500 mg, Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 4 g, Claims —low fat; low calorie

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 21 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Consommé

Egg whites 10 10 Ground beef, lean, preferably shank, neck or shoulder

2 lb. 960 g

Mirepoix 1 lb. 480 g Tomatoes, seeded and diced 12 oz. 360 g Beef broth or stock, cold 5 qt. 4.8 lt Onions brûlés 2 2 Sachet: Bay leaves 2 2 Dried thyme ½ tsp. 2 ml Peppercorns, crushed ½ tsp. 2 ml Parsley stems 8 8 Cloves, whole 2 2 Salt TT TT

➊ (^) Combining the ingredients for the clearmeat.

➋ (^) Making a hole in the raft to allow the liquid to bubble through.

➌ (^) Degreasing the consommé with a paper towel.

➍ (^) The finished consommé is clear with no trace of fat.

Good Choice

264 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

C REAM AND PURÉE SOUPS TABLE 12.

CREAM SOUPS PURÉE SOUPS Technique Cook principal ingredient in stock or velouté sauce

Cook principal ingredient in stock or water Thickener Roux or roux-thickened sauce Purée of starchy ingredients Texture Strained; very smooth and rich Not strained; slightly coarse and grainy

All cream soups are finished with milk or cream. Milk thins the soup while adding

richness; the same amount of cream adds much more richness without the same thinning

effect. Cold milk and cream curdle easily if added directly to a hot or acidic soup.

To prevent curdling:

1 Never add cold milk or cream to hot soup. Bring the milk or cream to a simmer

before adding it to the soup, or temper the milk or cream by gradually adding

some hot soup to it and then incorporating the warmed mixture into the rest of

the soup.

2 Add the milk or cream to the soup just before service, if possible.

3 Do not boil the soup after the milk or cream has been added.

4 Use béchamel or cream sauce instead of milk or cream to finish cream soups; the

roux or other starch helps prevent curdling.

cream sauce a sauce made by adding cream to a béchamel sauce

Procedure for Preparing Cream Soups

(^1) In a soup pot, sweat hard vegetables, such as squash, onions, carrots and celery, in oil or butter without browning. (^2) In order to thicken the soup: a. (^) add flour to the vegetables and cook to make a blond roux, then add the stock or other liquid as required, or b. (^) add the stock to the vegetables, bring the stock to a simmer and add a blond roux that was prepared separately, or c. (^) add a thin velouté or béchamel sauce (which contain roux) to the vegetables and then add the stock. (^3) Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. (^4) Add any soft vegetables such as broccoli or asparagus, and a sachet or bouquet garni as desired. (^5) Simmer the soup, skimming occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender. (^6) Purée the soup by passing it through a food mill or by using a blender, food processor or vertical cutter/mixer (VCM). Strain through a china cap if desired. If the soup is too thick, adjust the consistency by adding hot white stock. (^7) Finish the soup by adding hot milk or cream or a thin béchamel or cream sauce. Adjust the seasonings and serve.

S O U P S 265

Cream of Broccoli Soup

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ (^) Peel onions. Chop onions and celery into medium dice.  ▶ (^) Chop broccoli.  ▶ (^) Prepare velouté sauce and keep warm.  ▶ (^) While the soup is simmering, blanch broccoli florets and prepare the croutons.

1 Sweat the onions and celery in the butter, without browning, until they are nearly tender, approximately 2 minutes. Add the broccoli and sweat until tender, approximately 10 minutes. 2 Add the velouté sauce. Bring to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender, approximately 15 minutes. Skim the surface periodically. 3 Purée the soup by passing it through a food mill or by using a blender, food processor or vertical cutter/mixer (VCM). If a smoother product is desired, strain it through a china cap. 4 Return the soup to the stove and thin it to the desired consistency with some of the stock. 5 Bring the soup to a simmer and add the cream. Season to taste. 6 Serve the soup in warm bowls garnished with blanched broccoli florets and croutons just before service.

Variations:

To make cream of asparagus, cauliflower, corn, pea or spinach soup, substitute an equal amount of the chosen vegetable for the broccoli. If using fresh spinach, precook the leaves slightly before proceeding with the recipe.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 250, Total fat 20 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 60 mg, Sodium 1010 mg, Total carbohydrates 13 g, Protein 7 g, Vitamin A 35%, Vitamin C 70%

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 21 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Cream

Whole butter 4 oz. 120 g Onions, medium dice 8 oz. 240 g Celery, medium dice 4 oz. 120 g Broccoli, chopped 2 lb. 960 g Chicken velouté sauce, hot 3 qt. 2.8 lt Chicken stock, hot 1 pt. 480 ml Heavy cream, hot 1 pt. 480 ml Salt and white pepper TT TT Broccoli florets as needed for garnish Croutons, sautéed in butter as needed for garnish

➊ (^) Adding the velouté sauce. ➋ (^) Puréeing the soup by passing it through a food mill.

➌ (^) The finished soup has a silken texture and the thickness of heavy cream.

S O U P S 267

4 Remove the meat from the hocks or bones. Cut the meat into medium dice and add it to the soup. 5 Bring the soup to a simmer and, if necessary, adjust the consistency by adding hot chicken stock. Adjust the seasonings and serve, garnished with croutons.

Variations:

White beans, yellow peas and other dried beans can be soaked overnight in water and used instead of split peas.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 110, Total fat 4 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg, Sodium 870 mg, Total carbohydrates 6 g, Protein 11 g

➊ (^) Adding peas to the stockpot. ➋ (^) Puréeing the split pea soup. ➌ (^) Garnishing the finished soup with croutons.

Adjusting the Consistency of Thick Soups

Cream and purée soups tend to thicken when made in advance and refrigerated. To

dilute a portion being reheated, add hot stock, broth, water or milk to the hot soup

as needed.

If the soup is too thin, additional roux, beurre manié or cornstarch mixed with cool

stock can be used to thicken it. If additional starch is added to thicken the soup, it

should be used sparingly and the soup should be simmered a few minutes to cook out

the starchy flavor. A liaison of egg yolks and heavy cream can be used to thicken cream

soups when added richness is also desired. Remember, the soup must not boil after the

liaison is added or it may curdle.

OTHER SOUPS

Several popular types of soup do not fit the descriptions of, or follow the procedures

for, either clear or thick soups. Soups such as bisques and chowders as well as many

cold soups use special methods or a combination of the methods used for clear and

thick soups.

Bisques

Traditional bisques are shellfish soups thickened with cooked rice. Today bisques are

prepared using a combination of cream and purée soup procedures. They are generally

made from shrimp, lobster or crayfish and are thickened with a roux instead of rice for

better stability and consistency.

Much of a bisque’s flavor comes from crustacean shells, which are simmered in the

cooking liquid, puréed (along with the mirepoix), returned to the cooking liquid and

268 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

Procedure for Preparing Bisques

(^1) Caramelize the mirepoix and main flavoring ingredient in fat. (^2) Add a tomato product. Flavor with brandy if desired and deglaze with wine. (^3) Add the cooking liquid (stock or velouté sauce). (^4) Incorporate roux if needed. (^5) Simmer, skimming as needed. (^6) Strain the soup, reserving the solids and liquid if desired. (If called for, purée the solids in a food mill, blender or food processor and return them to the liquid.) Return to a simmer. (^7) Strain the soup through a fine chinois or a china cap lined with cheesecloth. (^8) Return the soup to a simmer and finish with hot cream.

To add even more richness to the bisque, monté au beurre with whole butter or a compound butter such as shrimp or lobster butter just before the soup is served. Also, if desired, add 3 ounces (90 milliliters) sherry to each gallon (approximately 4 liters) of soup just before service.

Shrimp Bisque

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ Peel onions, carrots and celery and chop fine for mirepoix.  ▶ Peel and chop garlic.  ▶ Prepare fish velouté with shrimp stock.  ▶ Prepare herb sachet.  ▶ Peel and devein shrimp.  ▶ While the bisque is simmering, wash and chop basil in chiffonade.

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 32 Servings, 4 fl. oz. (120 ml) each

METHOD Bisque

Clarified butter 3 fl. oz. 90 ml Mirepoix, chopped fine 1 lb. 480 g Shrimp shells and/or lobster or crayfish shells and bodies

2 lb. 960 g

Garlic cloves, chopped 2 2 Tomato paste 2 oz. 60 g Brandy 4 fl. oz. 120 ml White wine 12 fl. oz. 360 ml Fish velouté (made with shrimp stock) 1 gal. 3.8 lt Sachet: Bay leaf 1 1 Dried thyme ½ tsp. 2 ml Peppercorns, crushed ½ tsp. 2 ml Parsley stems 8 8 Heavy cream, hot 1 pt. 480 ml Salt and white pepper TT TT Cayenne pepper TT TT Dry or cream sherry wine, optional 4 fl. oz. 120 ml Shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 lb. 480 g Fresh basil, chiffonade as needed for garnish

strained after further cooking. Puréeing the shells and returning them to the soup also

adds the thickness and grainy texture associated with bisques.

Bisques are enriched with cream, following the procedures for cream soups, and can

be finished with butter for additional richness. The garnish should be diced flesh from

the appropriate shellfish.

270 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

New England–Style Clam Chowder

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ Peel and dice potatoes.  ▶ Dice the salt pork.  ▶ Peel and dice onions and celery.  ▶ While the chowder is simmering, peel and juli- enne carrot garnish and prepare the croutons.

1 Drain the clams, reserving both the clams and their liquid. Add enough water or stock so that the total liquid equals 1½ quarts (1.4 liters). 2 Simmer the potatoes in the clam liquid until nearly cooked through. Strain and reserve the potatoes and the liquid. 3 Render the salt pork with the butter. Add the onions and celery to the rendered fat and sweat until tender but not brown. 4 Add the flour and cook to make a blond roux. 5 Add the clam liquid to the roux, whisking away any lumps. 6 Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, skimming as necessary. 7 Bring the milk and cream to a boil and add to the soup. 8 Add the clams and potatoes, and season to taste with salt, pepper, Tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce and thyme. Return to a simmer. 9 Garnish each serving with fresh herbs, croutons and cooked bacon. Note If using fresh clams for the chowder, wash and steam ½ bushel (15 liters) chowder clams in a small amount of water to yield 1¼ quarts (1.2 liters) clam meat. Chop the clams. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth to remove any sand that may be present. Add enough water or stock so that the total liquid is 1½ quarts (1.4 liters). Continue with the recipe, starting at Step 2.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 260, Total fat 17 g, Saturated fat 8 g, Cholesterol 50 mg, Sodium 790 mg, Total carbohydrates 15 g, Protein 11 g, Vitamin A 10%, Calcium 10%

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 21 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Cream

Canned clams with juice 2 qt. 1.9 lt Water or fish stock approx. 1 qt. approx. 960 lt Potatoes, small dice 1 lb. 480 g Salt pork, small dice 8 oz. 240 g Whole butter 2 oz. 60 g Onions, small dice 1 lb. 480 g Celery, small dice 8 oz. 240 g Flour 4 oz. 120 g Milk 1 qt. 960 ml Heavy cream 8 fl. oz. 240 ml Salt and pepper TT TT Tabasco sauce TT TT Worcestershire sauce TT TT Fresh thyme TT TT Fresh herbs as needed for garnish Croutons, sautéed in oil as needed for garnish Slab bacon, julienne, cooked as needed for garnish

The finished chowder has a creamy, silken texture with the rich flavor of clams.

Cold Soups

Cold soups can be as simple as a chilled version of a cream soup or as creative as a cold

fruit soup blended with yogurt. Cold fruit soups have become popular on contemporary

dessert menus. Other than the fact that they are cold, cold soups are difficult to classify

because many of them use unique or combination preparation methods. Regardless

they are divided here into two categories: cold soups that require cooking and those

that do not.

S O U P S 271

Cooked Cold Soups

Many cold soups are simply a chilled version of a hot soup. For example, consommé

madrilène and consommé portugaise are prepared hot and served cold. Vichyssoise is a

cold version of puréed potato-leek soup. When serving a hot soup cold, there are several

considerations:

▪ ▶ If the soup is to be creamed, add the cream at the last minute. Although curdling

is not as much of a problem as it is with hot soups, adding the cream at the last

minute helps extend the soup’s shelf life.

▪ ▶ Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than hot soups. To achieve the

proper consistency, use less starch if starch is used as the thickener, or use a

higher ratio of liquid to main ingredient if the soup is thickened by puréeing.

Consistency should be checked and adjusted at service time.

▪ ▶ Cold dulls the sense of taste, so cold soups require more seasoning than hot

ones. Taste the soup just before service and adjust the seasonings as needed.

▪ ▶ Always serve cold soups as cold as possible, using chilled bowls.

Safety Alert

Cooked Cold Soup

Cooked cold soups, especially those made with potatoes, beans, dairy products or other high-protein foods, require time and temperature control for safety (TCS). They must be chilled quickly and held at or below 41°F (5°C). Because these soups will not be reheated for service, cross- contamination is also a concern. Keep the soup covered and store it above any raw meat, poultry or seafood in the cooler.

Vichyssoise (Cold Potato-Leek Soup)

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ (^) Wash and trim leeks.  ▶ (^) Peel and dice potatoes.  ▶ (^) While the soup is chilling, snip chives, cook sliced leeks and prepare bacon garnish.

1 Split the leeks lengthwise and wash well to remove all sand and grit. Slice them thinly. 2 Sweat the leeks in the butter without browning them. 3 Add the diced potatoes and stock, season with salt and white pepper and bring to a simmer. 4 Simmer until the leeks and potatoes are very tender, approximately 45 minutes. 5 Purée the soup in a food processor, blender or food mill; strain through a fine sieve. 6 Chill the soup well. 7 At service time, incorporate the cream and adjust the seasonings. Serve in chilled bowls, garnished with snipped chives, cooked leek slices and bacon.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 300, Total fat 22 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 70 mg, Sodium 660 mg, Total carbohydrates 19 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 20%, Vitamin C 20%

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 21 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Purée

Leeks, white part only 2 lb. 960 g Whole butter 8 oz. 240 g Russet potatoes, large dice 2 lb. 960 g Chicken stock 3½ qt. 3.3 lt Salt and white pepper TT TT Heavy cream 24 fl. oz. 720 ml Chives, snipped as needed for garnish Leek slices, cooked as needed for garnish Slab bacon, julienne, cooked as needed for garnish

Many cooked cold soups use fruit juice (typically apple, grape or orange) as a base

and are thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot as well as with puréed fruit. For addi-

tional flavor, wine is sometimes used in the place of a portion of the fruit juice. Cooked

cold soups may be based on a cooked fruit that is puréed. Cinnamon, ginger and other

spices that complement fruit are commonly added, as is lemon juice, lime juice or vine-

gar, which add acidity as well as flavor. Buttermilk, crème fraîche, yogurt or sour cream

can be used as an ingredient or garnish to add richness.

S O U P S 273

Gazpacho

M I S E E N P L A C E  ▶ (^) Peel and dice tomatoes, onions and peppers.  ▶ (^) Peel, seed and dice cucumbers.  ▶ (^) Peel and mince garlic.  ▶ (^) Peel and slice green onions.

1 Combine and purée all ingredients except the tomato juice, stock and garnish in a VCM, food processor or blender. 2 Stir in tomato juice. 3 Adjust the consistency with stock. 4 Stir in the vegetable garnishes and adjust the seasonings. 5 Serve in chilled cups or bowls garnished with green onion julienne.

Variation:

A chunky gazpacho can be made by not puréeing all the ingredients completely. Less garnish will be required.

Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 70, Total fat 0.5 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 600 mg, Total carbohydrates 14 g, Protein 3 g, Vitamin A 15%, Vitamin C 70%, Claims —low fat; no cholesterol

YIELD 1 gal. (3.8 lt), 21 Servings, 6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each

METHOD Uncooked Cold

Tomatoes, peeled and diced 2 lb. 8 oz. 1.2 kg Onions, medium dice 8 oz. 240 g Green bell pepper, medium dice 1 1 Red bell pepper, medium dice 1 1 Cucumbers, peeled, seeded, medium dice 1 lb. 480 g Garlic, minced 1 oz. 30 g Red wine vinegar 2 fl. oz. 60 ml Lemon juice 2 fl. oz. 60 ml Olive oil 4 fl. oz. 120 ml Salt and pepper TT TT Cayenne pepper TT TT Fresh bread crumbs, optional 3 oz. 90 g Tomato juice 3 qt. 2.8 lt Vegetable Stock (page 212) as needed as needed Garnish: Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, small dice 8 oz. 240 g Red bell pepper, small dice 4 oz. 120 g Green bell pepper, small dice 4 oz. 120 g Yellow bell pepper, small dice 4 oz. 120 g Cucumber, peeled, seeded, small dice 3 oz. 90 g Green onion, sliced fine 2 oz. 60 g Green onion, julienne as needed for garnish Safety Alert

Uncooked Cold Soup

Because uncooked cold soups are never heated, enzymes and bacteria are not destroyed and the soup can spoil quickly. Many cold soups also contain dairy products, which makes them a time and temperature control for safety (TCS) food. When preparing uncooked cold soups, always prepare small batches as close to service time as possible. Keep the soup at or below 41°F (5°C) at all times. Cover and store leftovers properly.

Uncooked Cold Soups

Some cold soups are not cooked at all. Rather they rely only on puréed fruits or vegeta-

bles for thickness, body and flavor. Cold stock is sometimes used to adjust the soup’s

consistency. Dairy products such as cream, sour cream and crème fraîche may also be

added to enrich and flavor the soup.

Good Choice Vegan

274 C H A P T E R T W E L V E

GARNISHING SOUPS

Garnishes and toppings can range from a simple sprinkle of chopped parsley on a bowl

of cream soup to tiny profiteroles stuffed with foie gras adorning a crystal-clear bowl of

consommé. Some soups are so full of attractive, flavorful and colorful foods that are inte-

gral parts of the soup (e.g., vegetables and chicken in chicken vegetable soup) that no

additional garnishes are necessary. In others, the garnish determines the type of soup.

For example, a beef broth garnished with cooked barley and diced beef becomes beef

barley soup.

Guidelines for Garnishing Soups

Although some soups (particularly consommés) have traditional garnishes, many soups

depend on the chef’s imagination and the kitchen’s inventory for the finishing garnish.

The only rules are as follows:

1 The garnish should be attractive.

2 The meats and vegetables used should be neatly cut into an appropriate and

uniform shape and size. This is particularly important when garnishing a clear

soup such as a consommé, as the consommé’s clarity highlights the precise

(or imprecise) cuts.

3 The garnish’s texture and flavor should complement the soup.

4 Starches and vegetables used as garnishes should be cooked separately, reheated

and placed in the soup bowl before the hot soup is added. If they are cooked in the

soup, they may cloud or thicken the soup or alter its flavor, texture and seasoning.

5 Garnishes should be cooked just until done; meat and poultry should be tender

but not falling apart, vegetables should be firm but not mushy, and pasta and rice

should maintain their identity. These types of garnishes are usually held on the

side and added to the hot soup at the last minute to prevent overcooking.

Garnishing Suggestions

Some garnishes are used to add texture, as well as flavor and visual interest, to soups.

Items such as crunchy croutons or oyster crackers, crispy crumbled bacon on a cream

soup or diced meat in a clear broth soup add a textural variety that makes the final prod-

uct more appealing.

Clear soups: Any combination of julienne cuts of the same meat, poultry, fish or

vegetable that provides the dominant flavor in the stock or broth; vegetables (cut

uniformly into any shape), pasta (flat, small tortellini or tiny ravioli), gnocchi,

quenelles, barley, spaetzle, white or wild rice, croutons, crepes, tortillas or won tons.

Cream soups, hot or cold: Toasted slivered almonds, sour cream or crème fraîche,

croutons, grated cheese or baked puff pastry cut-outs; cream vegetable soups are

usually garnished with slices or florets of the main ingredient.

Purée soups: Julienne cuts of poultry or ham, sliced sausage, croutons, grated cheese

or bacon bits.

Any soup: Finely chopped fresh herbs, snipped chives, edible flowers, parsley or

watercress.

SOUP SERVICE

Most soups can be made ahead of time, cooled down rapidly to ensure food safety and

refrigerated until needed. To preserve freshness and quality, small batches of soup

should be reheated as needed throughout the meal service.

Clear soups are quite easy to reheat because there is little danger of scorching. If

garnishes are already added to a clear soup, care should be taken not to overcook the