Cream Soups and Their Ingredients: Recipes and Nutritional Information, Exams of Spanish Philology

Detailed recipes and nutritional information for various cream soups, including ingredients such as beef, vegetables, and garnishes. Each recipe includes serving size and calorie information.

Typology: Exams

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FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI
ENCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER
STANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL
TRY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND
Chapter 9
Pho Bo, page 267.
197523-ch09.qxd:197523 Gisslen_1p 11/25/09 2:43 PM Page 222
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OD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI

CE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER

ANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL

Y AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND

Chapter 9

Pho Bo, page 267.

NG VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FO

EGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATION

AIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENT

ION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIE

T

he popularity of soups today may be due to increased nutrition

consciousness, to a desire for simpler or lighter meals, or to an

increased appreciation of how appetizing and satisfying soups

can be. Whatever the reasons, they emphasize the importance of soup-

making skills.

If you have already studied the preparation of stocks and sauces in

Chapter 8, you now have at your disposal the major techniques for the

preparation of soups. You know how to make stocks and how to use

thickening agents such as roux and liaison.

A few more techniques are necessary for you to master before you

are able to prepare all the types of soups that are popular today. As in

sauce-making, basic techniques are the building blocks you can use to

create a wide variety of appetizing soups.

Soups

223

After reading this chapter, you should be able to

1. Describe three basic categories of soups.

2. Identify standard appetizer and main-

course portion sizes for soups.

3. State the procedures for holding soups for

service and for serving soups at the proper

temperature.

4. Prepare clarified consommé.

5. Prepare vegetable soups and other

clear soups.

6. Prepare cream soups.

7. Prepare purée soups.

8. Prepare bisques, chowders, specialty

soups, and national soups.

3. Bisques are thickened soups made from shellfish. They are usually prepared like cream soups and are almost always finished with cream. The term bisque is sometimes used on menus for a variety of vegetable soups. In these cases, it is really a marketing term rather than a technical term, so it is impossible to give a definition that covers all uses. 4. Chowders are hearty soups made from fish, shellfish, and/or vegetables. Although they are made in many ways, they usually contain milk and potatoes. 5. Potage is a term sometimes associated with thick, hearty soups, but it is actually a general term for soup. A clear soup is called a potage clair in French.

Specialty and National Soups

This is a catch-all category for soups that don’t fit well into the main categories and soups that are native to particular countries or regions. Specialty soups are distinguished by unusual ingredients or methods, such as turtle soup, gumbo, peanut soup, and cold fruit soup. Cold soups are sometimes considered specialty soups, and, in fact, some of them are. But many other popular cold soups, such as jellied consommé, cold cream of cucumber soup, and vichyssoise (vee shee swahz) are simply cold versions of basic clear and thick soups.

Vegetarian Soups and Low-Fat Soups

A great variety of vegetable-based soups are suitable for vegetarian menus. To plan vegetarian menus, review the categories of vegetarianism discussed on page 682. Vegetable soups for vegans must contain no meat or any other animal product and must be made with water or vegetable stock. To bind thick soups, use a starch slurry or a roux made with oil rather than butter. Lacto-vegetarians, on the other hand, accept soups containing butter, milk, or cream. Because the appeal of vegetarian vegetable soups depends entirely on the freshness and the quality of the vegetables and not on the richness of meat stocks, be especially care- ful to use high-quality ingredients and to avoid overcooking. Clear soups are especially suitable for people seeking low-fat foods. Consommés and clear vegetable soups are virtually fat-free, especially if the vegetables were not sweated in fat before being simmered. Thick soups can be kept low in fat by thickening them with a slurry of starch (such as arrowroot, potato starch, or cornstarch) and cold water rather than with a roux. For cream soups, reduce or omit the cream and instead use evaporated skim milk. Purée soups are usually more adaptable than cream soups to low-fat diets because the vegetable purée adds body and richness to the soup without requiring added fat. A little yogurt or evaporated skim milk can be used to give creaminess to a purée soup. Even garnishing a serving of soup with a tea- spoonful of whipped cream gives a feeling of richness while adding only a gram or two of fat.

Service of Soups

Standard Portion Sizes

Appetizer portion: 6 to 8 oz (200 to 250 mL) Main course portion: 10 to 12 oz (300 to 350 mL)

Temperature

Serve hot soups hot, in hot cups or bowls. Serve cold soups cold, in chilled bowls or even nested in a larger bowl of crushed ice.

U N D E R S T A N D I N G S O U P S 225

Holding for Service

Strangely enough, some chefs who take the greatest care not to overcook meats or vegetables nevertheless keep a large kettle of soup on the steam table all day. You can imagine what a vegetable soup is like after four or five hours at that temperature.

1. Small-batch cooking applies to soups as well as to other foods. Heat small batches frequently to replenish the steam table with fresh soup. 2. Consommés and some other clear soups can be kept hot for longer periods if the vegetable garnish is heated separately and added at service time.

Garnish

Soup garnishes may be divided into three groups.

1. Garnishes in the soup. Major ingredients, such as the vegetables in clear vegetable soup, are often considered garnishes. This group of garnishes also includes meats, poultry, seafood, pasta prod- ucts, and grains such as barley or rice. They are treated as part of the preparation or recipe itself, not as something added on. Consommés are generally named after their garnish, such as consommé brunoise, which contains vegetables cut into brunoise shape [^1 ⁄ 8 -inch (3-mm) dice]. Vegetable cream soups are usually garnished with carefully cut pieces of the vegetable from which they are made. An elegant way to serve soup with a solid garnish is to arrange the garnish attrac- tively in the bottom of a heated soup plate. This plate is set before the diner, and then the soup is ladled from a tureen by the dining room staff. 2. Toppings. Clear soups are generally served without toppings to let the attractiveness of the clear broth and the carefully cut vegetables speak for themselves. Occasional exceptions are toppings of chopped parsley or chives. Thick soups, especially those that are all one color, are often decorated with a topping. Toppings should be placed on the soup just before service so they won’t sink or lose their fresh appearance. Their flavors must be appropriate to the soup. Do not overdo soup toppings. The food should be attractive in itself. Topping suggestions for thick soups include the following: Fresh herbs (parsley, chives), chopped Croutons Fine julienne of vegetables Grated parmesan cheese Sliced almonds, toasted Crumbled bacon Grated cheese Paprika Sieved egg yolks Flavored butters Chopped or riced egg whites Flavored oils Fried herbs, such as parsley, sage, chervil, celery leaves, leek julienne Sour cream, crème fraîche, or whipped cream, either plain or flavored with herbs or spices 3. Accompaniments. American soups are traditionally served with crackers. In addition to the usual saltines, other suggestions for crisp accompaniments are: Melba toast Cheese straws Corn chips Whole-grain wafers Breadsticks Profiteroles (tiny unsweetened cream-puff shells)

226 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

Broths can be served as is, with only seasoning and perhaps a light garnish added. For example, plain chicken broth is commonly served as a restorative for invalids. More often, however, broths are used in place of stocks in vegetable soups and other clear soups, as discussed in the section beginning on page 232. Like stock, broth can be made with water. For especially rich, flavorful broths, use stock in place of water in the broth recipe.

Consommé

When we define consommé as a clarified stock or broth, we are forgetting the most important part of the definition. The word consommé means, literally, “completed” or “concentrated.” In other words, a consommé is a strong, concentrated stock or broth. In classical cuisine, this was all that was necessary for a stock to be called a consommé. In fact, two kinds were recognized: ordinary (or unclarified) consommé and clarified consommé. Rule number one for preparing consommé is that the stock or broth must be strong, rich, and full-flavored. Clarification is second in importance to strength. A good consommé, with a mellow but full aroma and plenty of body (from the natural gelatin) you can feel in your mouth, is one of the great pleasures of fine cuisine. But clarification is an expensive and time-consuming procedure, and, quite frankly, it’s not worth the trouble if the soup is thin and watery.

How Clarification Works

Coagulation of proteins was an important subject in our discussion of stock-making because one of our major concerns was how to keep coagulated proteins from making the stock cloudy. Strangely enough, this same process of coagulation enables us to clarify stocks to perfect transparency. Remember that some proteins, especially those called albumins , dissolve in cold water. When the water is heated, they gradually solidify or coagulate and rise to the surface. If we control this process carefully, these proteins collect all the tiny particles that cloud a stock and carry them to the surface. The stock is then left perfectly clear. If, on the other hand, we are not careful, these proteins break up as they coagulate and cloud the liquid even more, just as they can do when we make stock.

Basic Ingredients

The mixture of ingredients we use to clarify a stock is called the clearmeat or the clarification.

1. Lean ground meat is one of the major sources of protein that enables the clearmeat to do its job. It also contributes flavor to the consommé. The meat must be lean because fat is undesirable in a consommé. Beef shank, also called shin beef , is the most desirable meat because it is high in albumin proteins as well as in flavor and gelatin, and it is very lean. Beef and/or chicken meat are used to clarify chicken consommé. Meat is not used, obviously, to make fish consommé. Ground lean fish may be used, but it is normal to omit flesh altogether and use only egg whites. 2. Egg whites are included in the clearmeat because, being mostly albumin, they greatly strengthen its clarifying power. 3. Mirepoix and other seasoning and flavoring ingredients are usually included because they add flavor to the finished consommé. They do not actually help in the clarification, except possibly to give solidity to the raft. The raft is the coagulated clearmeat, floating in a solid mass on top of the consommé. The mirepoix must be cut into fine pieces so it will float with the raft. A large amount of a particular vegetable may be added if a special flavor is desired, as in, for example, essence of celery consommé.

228 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

4. Acid ingredients (tomato products for beef or chicken consommé, lemon juice or white wine for fish consommé) are often added because the acidity helps coagulate the protein. They are not absolutely necessary—the heat will coagulate the protein anyway— but many chefs like to use them.

C L E A R S O U P S 229

Procedure for Preparing Consommé

1. Start with a well-flavored, cold, strong stock or broth. If your stock is weak, reduce it until it is

concentrated enough, then cool it before proceeding, or plan on simmering the consommé longer

to reduce while clarifying.

2. Select a heavy stockpot or soup pot, preferably one with a spigot at the bottom. The spigot enables

you to drain off the finished consommé without disturbing the raft.

3. Combine the clearmeat ingredients in the soup pot and mix them vigorously.

4. Optional step: Mix in a small amount of cold water or stock—4 to 8 oz per pound (250 to 500 mL

per kg) of meat—and let stand 30 to 60 minutes. This allows more opportunity for the proteins

that do the clarifying to dissolve out of the meat.

Note: Chefs disagree on the importance of this step. Some let the mixture stand overnight in

the refrigerator. Others skip the step altogether. Check with your instructor.

5. Gradually add the cold, degreased stock and mix well with the clearmeat.

The stock must be cold so it doesn’t cook the proteins on contact.

Mixing distributes the dissolved proteins throughout the stock so they can collect all the

impurities more easily.

6. Set the pot over a moderately low fire and let it come to a simmer very slowly.

7. Stir the contents occasionally so the clearmeat circulates throughout the stock and doesn’t burn

to the bottom.

8. When the simmering point is approaching, stop stirring. The clearmeat will rise to the surface and

form a raft.

9. Move the pot to lower heat so the liquid maintains a slow simmer. Do not cover. Boiling would break

up the raft and cloud the consommé. The same principle operates in stock-making.

10. Let simmer 1^1 ⁄ 2 hours without disturbing the raft.

11. Strain the consommé through a china cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth.

If you are not using a stockpot with a spigot, ladle the consommé out carefully without

breaking up the raft.

Let the liquid drain through the cheesecloth by gravity. Do not force it, or fine particles will

pass through and cloud the consommé.

12. Degrease.

Remove all traces of fat from the surface. Strips of clean brown paper passed across the surface

are effective in absorbing every last speck of fat without absorbing much consommé.

13. Adjust the seasonings.

Kosher salt is preferred to regular table salt because it has no impurities or additives that could

cloud the stock.

Figure 9.1 Preparing consommé.

(a) The stock is well mixed with the clarification ingredients and set on a burner to begin heating.

(b) The raft begins to rise to the top.

(c) The raft has almost completely formed. The consommé will continue to simmer for a total of 1^1 ⁄ 2 hours.

C L E A R S O U P S 231

V A R I A T I O N S

Chicken Consommé

Use chicken stock instead of beef or veal stock. Add to the clearmeat 8 oz (250 g) chicken trimmings (such as wing tips and necks) that have been chopped and browned in a hot oven. Omit tomato and add 1 fl oz (30 mL) lemon juice.

Cold Jellied Consommé

Unflavored gelatin must often be added to consommé to make jellied consommé. Amount needed depends on the strength of the stock and amount of jelling desired. Classically, a chilled consommé is only half jelled, more like a thick syrup. Some people, however, prefer a gelatin content high enough to solidify the consommé. In the following guidelines, use the lower quantity of gelatin for a partially jelled soup, the higher quantity for a fully jelled soup. Also, for tomatoed consommé (madrilène), increase the gelatin slightly because the acidity of the tomatoes weakens the gelatin.

  1. If stock is thin when cold, add 1–2 oz (30–60 g) gelatin per gallon (4 L).
  2. If stock is slightly jelled and syrupy when cold, add 1 ⁄ 2 –1 oz (15–30 g) gelatin per gallon (4 L).
  3. If stock is jelled when cold, no gelatin is needed. Add up to (^1) ⁄ 2 oz (15 g) per gallon (4 L) if firmer texture is desired. Gelatin may be added to clearmeat (in step 2 of recipe). This is the best method because there is no danger of clouding the consommé. It may also be added to finished consommé after softening it in cold water. See page 755 for instructions on use of gelatin.

Consommé Madrilène

Increase the tomatoes in the basic recipe to 24 oz (750 g). Use beef, veal, or chicken stock. Serve hot or jellied.

Essence of Celery Consommé

Increase the celery in the basic recipe to 1 lb (500 g).

Consommé au Porto

Flavor finished consommé with 6–8 fl oz (200–250 mL) port wine per gallon (4 L).

Consommé au Sherry

Flavor finished consommé with 6–8 fl oz (200–250 mL) sherry wine per gallon (4 L).

G A R N I S H E D C O N S O M M É S For the following consommés, prepare and cook the garnish separately. At service time, add 1–2 tbsp (15–30 mL) garnish to each portion. See page 143 for description of cuts. All cuts should be small enough to fit the bowl of a spoon. For example, julienne may need to be cut shorter than for other applications.

Consommé Brunoise

Onion or leek, carrot, celery, and turnip (optional), cut brunoise. Sweat lightly in butter and simmer in a little consommé until tender.

Consommé Julienne

Onion or leek, carrot, and celery, cut julienne. Prepare like brunoise garnish.

Consommé Printanière

Small dice of spring vegetables: carrot, turnip, celery, green beans. Prepare like brunoise garnish.

Consommé Paysanne

Thin slices of leeks, carrots, celery, turnip, and cabbage. Prepare like brunoise garnish.

Consommé with Pearl Tapioca

Cooked pearl tapioca.

Consommé Vermicelli

Cooked broken vermicelli (very thin spaghetti).

Consommé Fettuccine

Y I E L D : 1 0 O Z ( 3 0 0 G ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 10 fl oz 300 mL Consommé 0.2 oz (2 tsp) 6 g Agar-agar

Per serving: Calories, 5; Protein, 0 g; Fat; 0 g (0% cal.); Cholesterol, 0 mg; Carbohydrates, 1 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 10 mg.

  1. Place the consommé in a saucepan and mix in the agar-agar.
  2. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat. Whip with a wire whip to be sure the agar-agar is thoroughly mixed in.
  3. Select a half-sheet pan that is perfectly level. Have ready a refrigerator shelf that is perfectly level.
  4. Pour the consommé into the sheet pan. Refrigerate until set. This will take only a few minutes.
  5. Cut the jelled consommé lengthwise into uniform strips 1 ⁄ 4 inch (6 mm) wide. Remove from pan.
  6. To serve, mound a small portion on a plate. Garnish as desired (see Variation for suggestion).

V A R I A T I O N

Consommé Fettuccine with Parmesan and Basil

Mound 2 oz (60 g) in the center of a small plate. Using a squeeze bottle, squeeze an arc of Basil Sauce (p. 219) around one side of the mound. On the other side, spoon a mound of Parmesan Foam (p. 220). Garnish the fettuccine with a few small, whole basil leaves.

MOLECULAR SOUP

One of the ways chefs working in molecular

gastronomy (see page 79) surprise diners’

expectations and thus get them to focus on the

food is to transform foods into unexpected

shapes and forms. The recipe for Consommé

Fettuccine, transforming soup into noodles,

based on an idea developed by the Spanish chef

Ferran Adrià, is an example of this approach.

(continued)

Vegetable Soups

Clear vegetable soups are made from a clear stock or broth, not necessarily clarified, with the addition of one or more vegetables and, sometimes, meat or poultry and/or pasta or grains. Most vegetable soups are made from meat or poultry stock or broth. Meatless or vegetarian soups are made from vegetable broth or water.

232 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

Guidelines for Preparing Vegetable Soups

Procedures for making these soups are not complicated. Most of them are made simply by

simmering vegetables in stock until done. But care and attention to details are still necessary

for producing a high-quality soup.

1. Start with a clear, flavorful stock or broth.

This is one reason it’s important to be able to make stocks that are clear, not cloudy.

2. Select vegetables and other ingredients whose flavors go well together.

Don’t just throw in everything you’ve got. Judgment, combined with experience, must

be used to create a pleasing combination. Five or six vegetables are usually enough.

More than that often makes a jumble.

3. Cut vegetables uniformly.

Neat, careful cutting means uniform cooking and attractive appearance. Sizes of cuts

are important, too. Pieces should be large enough to be identifiable but small enough to

eat conveniently with a spoon.

4. Cooking vegetables slowly in a little butter before combining with liquid improves their

flavor and gives the soup a mellower, richer taste.

5. Cook starches such as grains and pasta separately and add to the soup later.

Cooking them in the soup makes it cloudy. Potatoes are sometimes cooked directly in

the soup, but they should be rinsed of excess starch after cutting if you want to keep the

soup as clear as possible.

6. Observe differences in cooking times.

Add long-cooking vegetables first, short-cooking vegetables near the end. Some vegetables,

like tomatoes, should be added to the hot soup only after it is removed from the fire.

7. Don’t overcook.

Some cooks feel soups must be simmered a long time to extract flavors into the liquid.

But you should already have done this when you made the stock! Vegetables in soup

should be no more overcooked than vegetable side dishes, especially as the soup will

probably spend a longer time in the steam table.

234 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

Piquant Vegetable Soup with Chickpeas

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 2 fl oz 60 mL Vegetable oil 11 ⁄ 4 lb 625 g Red onion, small dice 1 tbsp 15 mL Garlic, chopped 1 lb 500 g Green bell pepper, small dice 2–4 oz 60–125 g Jalapeño or other green chile, cut brunoise 5 qt 5 L Chicken stock or vegetable stock 11 ⁄ 4 lb 625 g Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 11 ⁄ 4 lb 625 g Cooked chickpeas 8 oz 250 g Corn kernels, frozen or fresh 8 oz 250 g Green beans, cooked until just tender and cut into 1 ⁄ 2 -in. (1-cm) pieces to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper to taste to taste Hot red pepper sauce (optional) Garnish: 12 oz 375 g Grated cheddar cheese (^1) ⁄ 3 cup 75 mL Chopped cilantro or whole cilantro leaves

Per serving: Calories, 160; Protein, 8 g; Fat, 8 g (45% cal.); Cholesterol, 20 mg; Carbohydrates, 14 g; Fiber, 3 g; Sodium, 105 mg.

  1. Heat the oil in a soup pot over moderate heat.
  2. Add onion, garlic, bell pepper, and green chile. Sweat the vegetables in the oil over low heat until they are about half-cooked. Do not let them brown.
  3. Add the stock. Bring to a boil and skim carefully. Simmer until the vegetables are just barely tender.
  4. Add the tomatoes, chickpeas, and corn. Simmer another 5 minutes.
  5. Shortly before serving, add the cooked green beans. (Beans should be cooked separately and added at the end so their color won’t be destroyed by the acidity of the tomatoes.)
  6. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Add hot pepper sauce, if desired.
  7. To serve, ladle a portion into soup plates and sprinkle with grated cheese and a little cilantro.

V A R I A T I O N

Piquant Vegetable Soup with Roasted Garlic

Roast 1 head of garlic, as explained on page 592. Separate and peel the cloves. Add to soup in step 4.

Mushroom Barley Soup

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 8 oz 250 g Barley

10 oz 300 g Onion, cut brunoise 5 oz 150 g Carrot, cut brunoise 5 oz 150 g White turnip, cut brunoise 2 oz 60 g Butter or chicken fat 5 qt 5 L Chicken stock

2 lb 1 kg Mushrooms, diced 4 oz 125 g Butter or chicken fat to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper

Per serving: Calories, 60; Protein, 3 g; Fat, 1 g (15% cal.); Cholesterol, 20 mg; Carbohydrates, 10 g; Fiber, 3 g; Sodium, 75 mg.

  1. Cook the barley in boiling water until tender. Drain.
  2. In a heavy saucepot or stockpot, sweat vegetables in the fat until about half-cooked. Do not let them brown.
  3. Add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are just tender.
  4. While the soup is simmering, sauté the mushrooms briefly in fat without letting them brown.
  5. Add mushrooms and drained, cooked barley to the soup. Simmer another 5 minutes.
  6. Degrease the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Other Clear Soups

In addition to vegetable soups, many other clear or unthickened soups are known to various cuisines. They range from simple broths to elabo- rate concoctions of meats, vegetables, starches, and other ingredients. Although many contain vegetables, we don’t classify them as vegetable soups because other ingredients are generally more prominent.

C L E A R S O U P S 235

Chicken Noodle Soup

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 10 oz 300 g Egg noodles 10 oz 300 g Cooked chicken meat (see Note) 6 qt 6 L Chicken stock to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper

as desired as desired Chopped parsley

Per serving: Calories, 70; Protein, 6 g; Fat, 1.5 g (21% cal.); Cholesterol, 25 mg; Carbohydrates, 7 g; Fiber, 0 g; Sodium, 20 mg. Note: See Chapter 13 (p. 420) for preparing “boiled” chicken and broth for use in soups. Other leftover cooked chicken may also be used.

  1. Cook noodles in boiling, salted water. (See Procedure for Cooking Pasta, p. 661.) Drain and rinse in cold water.
  2. Cut the chicken into small dice.
  3. Bring the stock to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. If stock doesn’t have enough flavor, add more stock and reduce to concentrate the flavor.
  4. Just before service, add the chicken and noodles to the stock. Let them heat through before serving.
  5. Garnish each portion with a little chopped parsley.

V A R I A T I O N S

Beef Noodle Soup

Prepare as in basic recipe, using beef and beef stock.

Chicken or Beef Noodle Soup

with Vegetables

Before adding the chicken and noodles, simmer 10 oz (300 g) diced carrots and 5 oz (150 g) diced celery in the stock until tender.

Brunswick Soup

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 10 oz 300 g Onions, small dice 1 oz 30 g Butter or oil 5 qt 5 L Chicken stock 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g Tomato concassé 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g Lima beans, frozen 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g Okra, fresh or frozen, cut in 1 ⁄ 4 -in. (^1 ⁄ 2 -cm) pieces 1 lb 475 g Corn, frozen 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g Cooked chicken meat and giblets, small dice to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper

Per serving: Calories, 120; Protein, 10 g; Fat, 3 g (23% cal.); Cholesterol, 40 mg; Carbohydrates, 13 g; Fiber, 3 g; Sodium, 45 mg.

  1. In a heavy pot, sweat the onions in the butter until about half cooked. Do not brown.
  2. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Simmer about 10 minutes.
  3. Add the remaining vegetables and the chicken. Simmer until vegetables are tender, about 10–15 minutes.
  4. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

  • What are the three basic categories of soup? What are some

examples of each?

  • What are normal portion sizes for soups?
  • After soups are cooked, how are they best held for service?
  • What is the procedure for making consommé?
  • How are clear vegetable soups made?

C L E A R S O U P S 237

Oxtail Soup

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 6 lb 2.7 kg Oxtails Mirepoix: 10 oz 300 g Onion, medium dice 5 oz 150 g Carrot, medium dice 5 oz 150 g Celery, medium dice 6 qt 6 L Brown stock (see Note) Sachet: 1 1 Bay leaf pinch pinch Dried thyme 6 6 Peppercorns 2 2 Whole cloves 1 1 Garlic clove 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g Carrots, small dice 11 ⁄ 4 lb 600 g White turnips, small dice 10 oz 300 g Leeks, white part only, cut julienne 4 oz 125 g Butter 10 oz 300 g Tomatoes (canned), drained, coarsely chopped 2 fl oz 60 mL Sherry (optional) to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste Pepper

Per serving: Calories, 240; Protein, 24 g; Fat, 11 g (45% cal.); Cholesterol, 90 mg; Carbohydrates, 6 g; Fiber, 2 g; Sodium, 220 mg. Note: Water is sometime used instead of stock. If this is done, brown 4–5 lb (about 2 kg) beef or veal bones with the oxtails and simmer both bones and oxtails in the soup. Double the quantity of mirepoix.

  1. Using a heavy chef’s knife, cut the oxtails into sections at the joints.
  2. Place oxtails in a bake pan and brown in a 450°F (230°C) oven. When partially browned, add the mirepoix to the pan and brown it along with the oxtails.
  3. Place the oxtails and mirepoix in a stockpot with the stock.
  4. Pour off the fat from the pan in which the meat was browned. Deglaze the pan with a little of the stock and add this to the stockpot.
  5. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and skim well. Add the sachet.
  6. Simmer until the meat is tender, about 3 hours. Add a little water if necessary during cooking to keep the meat completely covered.
  7. Remove the oxtail pieces from the broth. Trim the meat from the bones and dice it. Place in a small pan with a little broth. Keep warm if the soup is to be finished immediately, or chill for later use.
  8. Strain the broth. Degrease carefully.
  9. Sweat the carrots, turnips, and leeks in the butter until about half cooked.
  10. Add the broth. Simmer until vegetables are tender.
  11. Add the tomatoes and reserved oxtail meat. Simmer another minute.
  12. Add the sherry, if desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

V A R I A T I O N Oxtail soup is often clarified. Chill broth after step 7 and clarify like consommé. See page 229 for procedure.

Thick Soups

Cream Soups

Learning to cook professionally, as you have already heard, is not learning recipes but learning basic techniques you can apply to specific needs. The basic techniques of sauce-making were discussed in Chapter 8. If we tell you that cream soups are simply diluted velouté or béchamel sauces, flavored with the ingredient for which they are named, you should almost be able to make a cream of celery soup without further instructions. It’s not quite that simple. There are some complications, but they are mostly a matter of detail. You already know the basic techniques.

The Classic Cream Soups In the great kitchens of several decades ago, cream soups were exactly as we have just described: diluted, flavored sauces. In fact, what we now call cream soups were divided into two groups, veloutés and creams. These methods were natural to large kitchens that always had quantities of velouté and béchamel sauces on hand. Making a soup was simply a matter of finishing off a sauce. Modern cooks view these methods as complicated and have devised other methods that seem simpler. But most of the sauce steps are involved—you still have to thicken a liquid with roux (or other starch), cook and purée the ingredients, and add the milk or cream. The classical method is still important to learn. It will give you versatility, it makes excellent soup, and besides, it really isn’t any harder or longer, in the final analysis. In addition, we explain two other methods much in use today. But first, we consider a problem frequently encountered with cream soups.

Curdling Because cream soups contain milk or cream or both, curdling is a common problem. The heat of cooking and the acidity of many of the other soup ingredients are the causes of this curdling. Fortunately, we can rely on one fact to avoid curdling: Roux and other starch thickeners stabilize milk and cream. Caution is still necessary because soups are relatively thin and do not contain enough starch to be completely curdle-proof. Observe the following guidelines to help prevent curdling:

1. Do not combine milk and simmering soup stock without the presence of roux or other starch. Do one of the following: - Thicken the stock before adding milk. - Thicken the milk before adding it to the soup. 2. Do not add cold milk or cream to simmering soup. Do one of the following: - Heat the milk in a separate saucepan. - Temper the milk by gradually adding some of the hot soup to it. Then add it to the rest of the soup. 3. Do not boil soups after milk or cream is added.

Standards of Quality for Cream Soups

1. Thickness. About the consistency of heavy cream. Not too thick.

238 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

240 C H A P T E R 9 S O U P S

Cream of Celery Soup (Cream Soup Method 1)

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L ) U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E 3 lb 1.5 kg Celery, small dice 12 oz 375 g Onion, small dice 3 oz 90 g Butter 41 ⁄ 2 qt 4.5 L Velouté sauce, made with chicken or veal stock (see Note)

3 pt 1.5 L Milk or white stock, hot to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper

3 cups 750 Ml Heavy cream, hot (see Note) Optional garnish: 6 oz 175 g Celery, cut julienne, cooked Per serving: Calories, 320; Protein, 5 g; Fat, 27 g (75% cal.); Cholesterol, 90 mg; Carbohydrates, 15 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 240 mg. Note: Béchamel may be used in place of velouté if desired. This is often done for vegetarian menus. The quantity of cream may be decreased as desired to reduce dietary fat.

  1. Review cream soup guidelines and Method 1 (p. 239).
  2. Sweat the celery and onions in the butter in a heavy saucepot until almost tender. Do not let them brown.
  3. Add the velouté to the pot. Simmer until vegetables are very tender.
  4. Skim any fat or scum from the soup.
  5. Pass the soup through a food mill to purée it.
  6. Pass the puréed soup through a fine china cap or cheesecloth.
  7. Add enough hot milk or stock to bring the soup to the proper consistency.
  8. Heat the soup again, but do not let it boil.
  9. Season to taste.
  10. At service time, add the cream. Add garnish if desired.

V A R I A T I O N S , M E T H O D 1 For the following cream soups, make substitutions in the basic recipe as indicated. Frozen and canned vegetables may be used, where appropriate, in place of fresh. Also, trimmings may be used if clean and of good quality, such as bottom ends of asparagus and broccoli stalks.

Cream of Asparagus

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) asparagus stalks in place of celery. Optional garnish: cooked asparagus tips.

Cream of Broccoli

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) broccoli in place of celery. Optional garnish: small cooked broccoli florets.

Cream of Carrot

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) carrots in place of celery. Garnish: chopped parsley.

Cream of Cauliflower

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) cauliflower in place of celery. Optional garnish: tiny cooked cauliflower florets.

Cream of Corn

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) whole-kernel corn (fresh, frozen, or canned) in place of celery. Do not sweat the corn with the onions. Instead, sweat the onions alone, add velouté, then add corn. Garnish: corn kernels.

Cream of Cucumber

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) peeled, seeded cucumber in place of celery. Optional garnish: small, diced, cooked cucumber.

Cream of Mushroom

Use 1^1 ⁄ 2 lb (750 g) mushrooms in place of celery. Optional garnish: julienne, brunoise, or sliced cooked mushrooms.

Cream of Pea

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) frozen green peas in place of celery. Do not sweat the peas with the onions. Add them after velouté is added.

Cream of Spinach

Use 3 lb (1.5 kg) fresh spinach or 2 lb (900 g) frozen spinach in place of celery. Do not sweat the spinach with the onion. Blanch it, drain well, and add to velouté in step 3.

Cream of Watercress

Use 1^1 ⁄ 2 lb (750 g) watercress in place of celery.

Cream of Chicken

Reduce celery to 6 oz (175 g) and add 6 oz (175 g) carrot (note that, together with the onion, this makes 1^1 ⁄ 2 lb [750 g] mirepoix). Use a velouté sauce made with a strong, flavorful chicken stock. After soup is strained, add 6 oz (175 g) cooked chicken meat, cut into julienne or fine dice.

Cold Cream Soups

Most cream soups are delicious cold as well as hot. For example, cold cream of cucumber soup is a special favorite in summer. Procedure:

  1. Chill soup after step 9 in recipe.
  2. Add cold cream after soup is well chilled.
  3. Dilute with extra milk, cream, or stock if soup becomes too thick.
  4. Season carefully. Cold foods require more seasonings.

T H I C K S O U P S 241

Cream of Mushroom Soup (Cream Soup Method 2)

Y I E L D : 6 Q T ( 6 L ) P O R T I O N S : 2 4 P O R T I O N S I Z E : 8 F L O Z ( 2 5 0 M L )

U. S. M E T R I C I N G R E D I E N T S P R O C E D U R E

12 oz 375 g Butter 12 oz 375 g Onion, chopped fine 11 ⁄ 2 lb 750 g Mushrooms, chopped 9 oz 275 g Flour

41 ⁄ 2 qt 4.5 L White stock, chicken or veal, hot

3 pt 1.5 L Milk, hot to taste to taste Salt to taste to taste White pepper

3 cups 750 mL Heavy cream, hot (see Note) Optional garnish: 6 oz 175 g Mushrooms, cut brunoise, sautéed in butter

Per serving: Calories, 300; Protein, 5 g; Fat 25 g (75% cal.); Cholesterol, 85 mg; Carbohydrates, 14 g; Fiber, 1 g; Sodium, 170 mg. Note: The quantity of cream may be decreased as desired to reduce dietary fat.

  1. Review cream soup guidelines and Method 2 (p. 239).
  2. Heat the butter in a heavy saucepot over moderate heat.
  3. Add the onions and mushrooms. Sweat the vegetables without letting them brown.
  4. Add the flour and stir to make a roux. Cook the roux a few minutes, but do not let it start to brown.
  5. Gradually beat in the stock. Bring to a boil, stirring with a whip as it thickens.
  6. Simmer until vegetables are very tender.
  7. Skim the soup carefully.
  8. Pass the soup through a food mill to purée it.
  9. Pass the puréed soup through a fine china cap or cheesecloth.
  10. Add enough hot milk to bring the soup to the proper consistency.
  11. Heat the soup again, but do not let it boil.
  12. Season to taste.
  13. At service time, add the cream. Add garnish, if desired.

V A R I A T I O N S , M E T H O D 2 For each variation, replace the mushrooms with the vegetable in quantity indicated. See Note to the variations for Cream of Celery Soup, page 240.

Cream of Asparagus

3 lb (1.5 kg) asparagus

Cream of Broccoli

3 lb (1.5 kg) broccoli

Cream of Carrot

3 lb (1.5 kg) carrots

Cream of Cauliflower

3 lb (1.5 kg) cauliflower

Cream of Celery

3 lb (1.5 kg) celery

Cream of Corn

3 lb (1.5 kg) whole-kernel corn

Cream of Cucumber

3 lb (1.5 kg) peeled, seeded cucumber

Cream of Green Pea

3 lb (1.5 kg) frozen peas. Add after step 5.

Cream of Spinach

3 lb (1.5 kg) fresh or 2 lb (900 g) frozen spinach. Blanch, drain, and add after step 5.

Cream of Watercress

11 ⁄ 2 lb (750 g) watercress

Cream of Chicken

6 oz (175 g) celery and 6 oz (175 g) carrot. Use strong chicken stock. Add 6 oz (175 g) cooked chicken meat, cut into julienne or fine dice, to finished soup after straining.