E COLLAR BASICS: EINSTEIN ET-300TS, Exams of Consumer Electronics

The Einstein ET-300TS is a low-medium power E-collar built for small to medium-sized dogs. The dial goes from 1-100. 1) Stimulation Button – (Black) It ...

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E COLLAR BASICS: EINSTEIN ET-300TS
The Einstein ET-300TS is a low-medium power E-collar built for small to medium-sized dogs.
The dial goes from 1-100.
1) Stimulation Button – (Black) It sends a stimulation to collar.
2) Stimulation Booster Button – (Red) It sends a boosted stimulation to collar (25 levels higher than
current stim level). Depending on your dog, this might be used as the corrective level.
ABOUT STIM BUTTONS:
This is pressed once as a “Pop” at the corrective level, if your dog breaks command
or does an unwanted behavior (jumping up, mouthing, etc). Think of it like a leash
correction.
If you hold it down, it will only give stimulation for 10 seconds (in case you sit on it
or something...which you will never do...)
3) Stimulation Dial – This goes from 1-100. Below you will find what level you will use
primarily with your dog, with the headway above that number for higher intensity
situations.
4) Battery/Power Light – This light will tell you two things:
Whether or not the collar is turned on - if the light on the collar is blinking green, it
is on. Face the box OUT on your dogs’ neck so you can see whether this is
blinking or not.
The battery status of the collar - if it is blinking GREEN, it’s fully charged, AMBER
medium charge, and RED, needs to charge. It is very important that the collar is
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E COLLAR BASICS: EINSTEIN ET-300TS

The Einstein ET-300TS is a low-medium power E-collar built for small to medium-sized dogs. The dial goes from 1-100.

  1. Stimulation Button – (Black) It sends a stimulation to collar.

  2. Stimulation Booster Button – (Red) It sends a boosted stimulation to collar (25 levels higher than current stim level). Depending on your dog, this might be used as the corrective level.

ABOUT STIM BUTTONS: This is pressed once as a “Pop” at the corrective level, if your dog breaks command or does an unwanted behavior (jumping up, mouthing, etc). Think of it like a leash correction.

If you hold it down, it will only give stimulation for 10 seconds (in case you sit on it or something...which you will never do...)

  1. Stimulation Dial – This goes from 1-100. Below you will find what level you will use primarily with your dog, with the headway above that number for higher intensity situations.

  2. Battery/Power Light – This light will tell you two things:

  • Whether or not the collar is turned on - if the light on the collar is blinking green, it is on. Face the box OUT on your dogs’ neck so you can see whether this is blinking or not.
  • The battery status of the collar - if it is blinking GREEN, it’s fully charged, AMBER medium charge, and RED, needs to charge. It is very important that the collar is

sufficiently charged.

  1. Magnetic Power Switch – To turn the collar ON/OFF, you put the similar red dot on the lower right side of remote to this red dot.

  2. Vibration Button – (T) It sends vibration to the collar. No need to use this button, because the vibration can freak dogs out unnecessarily!

  3. On/Off & Light Button – ON/OFF RECIEVER: Hold button down for 2 seconds. LIGHT: Hold down for 0.5 seconds to turn on/off light on collar.

  4. Momentary/Continuous Button – (m/c) To switch between momentary or continuous stimulation of collars. (We only use CONTINUOUS!) You can see if you are on m or c on the LCD screen.

CHARGING: You will charge the collar using a splitter cable - one will go the back of the e-collar box(s), one will go to the back of the remote. If you have the collar on most of the day, we suggest charging it every couple days.

USING THE E-COLLAR

Like a leash pop on a prong collar, the level that you correct your dog at will change in direct proportion to the level of intensity your dog is exhibiting, or the level of distraction in the environment.

For instance, if you are working your dog on Place and Down inside the house, you will most likely only need to correct at the lowest corrective level. However, if a guest comes into your house, you will most likely need to go beyond that level to get through to the dog.

And, of course, if your dog is tearing down the street towards a busy intersection, chasing a cat, it is likely that they will only respond when the dial is turned up considerably - 40-60-80-100? Don't focus on the number, focus on your dog and his reaction.

It is imperative to NOT get stuck on the number on the dial!! :) As intensity and adrenaline increases, so does the dog’s threshold for feeling the stimulation of the collar

  • if they are not responding to a correction by changing their behavior, the collar is not at a level significant enough for them to take seriously.

EXCEPTION: If the collar is too loose, or if it is not high up on her neck, the dog will most likely not be getting proper contact, and the stimulation will not do its job.

Improper fit is also dangerous because you may think your dog is intense, or blowing off the correction, so you keep dialing up - then suddenly, the dog moves its head and the collar makes contact at a level way too high for the infraction. So that brings us to...

"Place."

Spot goes to the mat.

Down – This can be done anywhere, and does not need to be on a mat or bed. You say this command after you after you have recalled the dog to you. Example:

"Spot, here"

Spot heads in your direction - once he is at your feet...

"Down."

Spot lays down.

No – This will be used if your dog breaks command (walks off place, gets out of a down, etc). You will pair this with a pop on the e-collar.

Sit – This is primarily used on walks or for other short-duration behaviors, like waiting for food, waiting before going into the crate, before going through doors, etc.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

  • Timing is everything! You want to catch your dog at the first moment of the infraction, if possible - there is much more value and learning in a correction that happens as soon as the dog makes a bad choice.
  • If your dog seems locked up, unsure, or confused after you give a command, try closing the distance - walk closer, and then give the command again.
  • Do not get stuck on a number on the dial - if you are not meeting or exceeding the distraction level or intensity of the dog with the level you are using, you will be ineffective.

Lastly, remember whenever you introduce a new person, a new dog,or new environment, be prepared for possible challenges and problems. These new distractions often need to be worked through and problem solved like earlier training exercises. Be patient, and work through it. Trust the training and your skills!